21 ingredients
PDRN INCI: Sodium DNA
Purified DNA fragments, usually from salmon, in comfort and recovery serums.
- What it is
- Polydeoxyribonucleotide, short fragments of DNA, usually taken from salmon. On the label it reads Sodium DNA.
- What it does
- A skin-conditioning ingredient. Keep claims to how skin looks and feels: hydrated, smoother-looking, comfortable. Most human research uses injections or procedures; evidence for products on intact skin is still early.
- Goes into
- Serums, ampoules, creams
- Good to know
- Leave claims such as "repairs DNA" or "heals" off the box. Salmon-free "plant PDRN" also exists; our PDRN serum article explains the difference.
Our lab keeps a ready PDRN concentrate. See ready concentrates
Sources: Squadrito 2017, Frontiers in Pharmacology (review) · Marques 2025, Biomolecules (review) · EU CosIng: SODIUM DNA
Cica INCI: Centella Asiatica Extract
The calming plant behind countless Korean barrier creams.
- What it is
- Extract of Centella asiatica, also called gotu kola or tiger grass. Its key compounds are asiaticoside, madecassoside and asiatic acid.
- What it does
- Soothes and conditions skin and smooths its look. A favorite for sensitive, stressed or dry skin.
- Goes into
- Creams and gel creams, toners, sheet masks, ampoules
- Good to know
- Some formulas use the whole extract, others a purified compound such as madecassoside. Both appear under their own names on the INCI list.
Our lab keeps a ready cica and ceramide concentrate for creams and gel creams. See ready concentrates
Sources: Bylka 2013, Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii (review) · EU CosIng: CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT · EU CosIng: MADECASSOSIDE
Niacinamide vitamin B3
The all-rounder for uneven tone, dullness and fine lines.
- What it is
- A form of vitamin B3 that dissolves in water and stays stable in most formulas.
- What it does
- Evens the look of tone and dark spots, reduces the look of blotchiness and sallowness, and smooths the look of fine lines. A controlled study of topical niacinamide found improvements in all of these, plus elasticity.
- Goes into
- Serums, ampoules, toners, creams
- Good to know
- It pairs well with other brighteners: our lab combines it with tranexamic acid and with vitamin C.
Our lab keeps a ready niacinamide concentrate. See ready concentrates
Sources: Bissett 2005, Dermatologic Surgery · Boo 2021, Antioxidants (review) · EU CosIng: NIACINAMIDE
Snail mucin INCI: Snail Secretion Filtrate
The K-beauty classic for a bouncy, dewy look.
- What it is
- Filtered secretion collected from snails. On the label it reads Snail Secretion Filtrate.
- What it does
- Hydrates and conditions skin for a plump, dewy look.
- Goes into
- Essences, creams, sheet masks
- Good to know
- Most studies so far are lab studies or small trials, so keep claims to hydration and feel. It is an animal-derived ingredient, so it does not suit a vegan line.
Snail is one of the classic K-beauty bases our lab keeps ready. See ready concentrates
Sources: Singh 2024, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (review) · Nguyen 2020, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (review) · EU CosIng: SNAIL SECRETION FILTRATE
Retinal retinaldehyde
A vitamin A form one step closer to retinoic acid than retinol.
- What it is
- Retinaldehyde, a form of vitamin A. Skin converts it to retinoic acid in one step, against two for retinol.
- What it does
- Smooths the look of fine lines and uneven texture. In skin studies it showed more activity than retinol.
- Goes into
- Night serums, night creams, eye creams
- Good to know
- A stronger active: introduce it slowly, use it at night and pair it with daily sunscreen. It loses strength in air and light, so an airless pump or an opaque bottle suits it. Limits vary by market, we check them for your market.
Our lab keeps a ready encapsulated retinal concentrate. See ready concentrates
Sources: Saurat 1994, Journal of Investigative Dermatology · Sorg 2014, Dermatology (review) · EU CosIng: RETINAL
Retinol vitamin A
The best-known vitamin A for smoother-looking skin.
- What it is
- The alcohol form of vitamin A. Skin converts it to retinoic acid in two steps.
- What it does
- Smooths the look of fine lines and uneven texture over weeks of regular use.
- Goes into
- Serums, night creams, eye creams
- Good to know
- A stronger active: use it at night with daily sunscreen. In the EU, Regulation (EU) 2024/996 limits retinol to 0.05% retinol equivalent in body lotion and 0.3% in other products, and requires the warning "Contains Vitamin A. Consider your daily intake before use". It applies to products placed on the EU market from 1 November 2025, and to all products sold there from 1 May 2027.
We can develop or source formulas with retinol. Tell us in your brief.
Sources: Mukherjee 2006, Clinical Interventions in Aging (review) · Zasada 2019, Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii (review) · Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996 · EU CosIng: RETINOL
Peptides for example Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Short chains of amino acids for firming and smoothing formulas.
- What it is
- Short chains of amino acids. Each peptide has its own INCI name, such as Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 or Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1.
- What it does
- Smooth the look of fine lines and firm the look of skin. Reviews sort them into signal, carrier, enzyme-inhibitor and neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptides, and the evidence differs from one peptide to the next.
- Goes into
- Serums, ampoules, eye creams, creams
- Good to know
- Ask which peptide a formula uses and at what level: the claim and the price depend on it. Korean formulas often pair peptides with adenosine.
Our lab keeps two ready peptide concentrates: peptide and adenosine, and collagen and peptide. See ready concentrates
Sources: Gorouhi 2009, International Journal of Cosmetic Science (review) · EU CosIng: ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8 · EU CosIng: PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1
Ceramides for example Ceramide NP
The skin's own barrier lipids, put back in a cream.
- What it is
- Lipids that make up much of the skin's outer barrier, alongside cholesterol and fatty acids. A common INCI name is Ceramide NP.
- What it does
- Support the skin barrier and help skin hold on to moisture, for skin that feels dry or tight.
- Goes into
- Creams and lotions, body lotions
- Good to know
- The skin's barrier lipids are roughly equal parts ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids, so formulas often combine all three.
Our lab keeps a ready cica and ceramide concentrate. See ready concentrates
Sources: Coderch 2003, American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (review) · Meckfessel 2014, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (review) · EU CosIng: CERAMIDE NP
Hyaluronic acid INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate
The water magnet behind most hydrating toners and serums.
- What it is
- A sugar molecule the skin makes itself, used in formulas as sodium hyaluronate in different molecular weights.
- What it does
- Hydrates: it holds water in the upper layers of skin for a plumper, smoother look.
- Goes into
- Toners, essences, serums, ampoules, mists, sheet masks
- Good to know
- A blend of several molecular weights layers without pilling.
Our lab keeps a ready multi-weight hyaluronic concentrate. See ready concentrates
Sources: Papakonstantinou 2012, Dermato-Endocrinology · Bukhari 2018, International Journal of Biological Macromolecules (review) · EU CosIng: SODIUM HYALURONATE
Vitamin C Ascorbic Acid and derivatives
The brightening antioxidant, as pure ascorbic acid or a stable derivative.
- What it is
- Ascorbic acid, or a derivative such as 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid that stays stable for longer.
- What it does
- An antioxidant that brightens the look of dullness and dark spots and helps skin look firmer.
- Goes into
- Serums, ampoules
- Good to know
- Pure ascorbic acid is the most studied form but needs a low pH and airtight packaging; derivatives are gentler and easier to keep stable. An airless pump or an opaque bottle protects either one.
Our lab keeps a ready vitamin C derivative concentrate. See ready concentrates
Sources: Al-Niaimi 2017, Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (review) · Pullar 2017, Nutrients (review) · EU CosIng: ASCORBIC ACID · EU CosIng: 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID
Heartleaf INCI: Houttuynia Cordata Extract
The soothing plant in many Korean toners for oily, easily irritated skin.
- What it is
- Extract of Houttuynia cordata, a leafy plant also called fishwort.
- What it does
- Soothes and refreshes skin. Lab studies show antioxidant and calming activity.
- Goes into
- Toners, mists, gel cleansers, sheet masks
- Good to know
- Most of the evidence comes from lab studies, so keep claims to how skin looks and feels.
Our lab keeps a ready heartleaf concentrate. See ready concentrates
Sources: Wei 2024, Phytomedicine (review) · Kwon 2023, Applied Biochemistry and Biotechnology · EU CosIng: HOUTTUYNIA CORDATA EXTRACT
Rice INCI: Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Rice Ferment Filtrate
Rice bran and rice ferment for a soft, even look.
- What it is
- Extract of rice bran, which carries ferulic acid and gamma-oryzanol, or the filtrate left after fermenting rice (sake).
- What it does
- Hydrates and brightens the look of dull skin. In a 28-day study with 30 volunteers, gels and creams with rice bran compounds improved skin hydration, roughness and elasticity.
- Goes into
- Essences, toners, sheet masks
- Good to know
- Rice bran extract and rice ferment filtrate are different ingredients with different INCI names, so name the one you want.
Rice is one of the classic K-beauty bases our lab keeps ready. See ready concentrates
Sources: Manosroi 2012, Pharmaceutical Biology · EU CosIng: ORYZA SATIVA BRAN EXTRACT · EU CosIng: RICE FERMENT FILTRATE
Mugwort INCI: Artemisia Vulgaris or Princeps Extract
Korean mugwort, a traditional calming herb for toners and masks.
- What it is
- Extract of mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris) or Korean mugwort (Artemisia princeps).
- What it does
- Soothes and conditions skin. Artemisia extracts contain flavonoids and phenolic acids, plant compounds with antioxidant activity.
- Goes into
- Toners, essences, wash-off masks, creams
- Good to know
- Most of the evidence comes from lab studies, so keep claims to how skin looks and feels.
Mugwort is one of the classic K-beauty bases our lab keeps ready. See ready concentrates
Sources: Ekiert 2022, Molecules (review) · EU CosIng: ARTEMISIA VULGARIS EXTRACT · EU CosIng: ARTEMISIA PRINCEPS EXTRACT
Propolis INCI: Propolis Extract
The bee resin behind honey-toned glow ampoules.
- What it is
- The resin bees collect from plants to build and seal their hives.
- What it does
- Conditions skin and gives formulas a warm, honey-toned look. It contains plant compounds such as flavonoids.
- Goes into
- Ampoules, essences, creams
- Good to know
- Propolis is a known contact allergen for some people, so allergy information and patch testing matter.
Propolis is one of the classic K-beauty bases our lab keeps ready. See ready concentrates
Sources: de Groot 2013, Dermatitis (review) · EU CosIng: PROPOLIS EXTRACT
Galactomyces INCI: Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
A yeast ferment filtrate for smooth, luminous-looking skin.
- What it is
- The liquid left after fermentation with a Galactomyces yeast. Its use began with the smooth hands of sake brewers.
- What it does
- Helps skin hold moisture and supports the barrier. Lab studies show it raises filaggrin, a source of the skin's natural moisturizing factors.
- Goes into
- Essences, toners, serums
- Good to know
- The evidence comes mostly from lab studies and small trials, so keep claims to how skin looks and feels.
We can develop or source formulas with galactomyces. Tell us in your brief.
Sources: Yan 2022, Journal of Clinical Medicine (review) · Nakamizo 2024, Journal of Dermatological Science · EU CosIng: GALACTOMYCES FERMENT FILTRATE
Bakuchiol from the babchi plant
The plant-based pick for brands that leave out retinoids.
- What it is
- A compound from the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia).
- What it does
- Smooths the look of fine lines and evens the look of tone. In a randomized, double-blind study it did about as well as retinol on wrinkles and spots, with less scaling and stinging.
- Goes into
- Serums, creams, face oils
- Good to know
- It is oil soluble, so it sits well in oils, creams and lotions.
We can develop or source formulas with bakuchiol. Tell us in your brief.
Sources: Dhaliwal 2019, British Journal of Dermatology · Chaudhuri 2014, International Journal of Cosmetic Science · EU CosIng: BAKUCHIOL
Tranexamic acid TXA
The go-to active for the look of stubborn dark spots.
- What it is
- A synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine.
- What it does
- Evens the look of dark spots and uneven tone. Dermatology studies on pigmentation support its topical use; cosmetic claims stay with how skin looks.
- Goes into
- Serums, ampoules
- Good to know
- Often paired with niacinamide and licorice. Limits vary by market, we check them for your market.
Our lab keeps a ready tranexamic acid concentrate, the base of our own brightening ampoule. See ready concentrates
Sources: Desai 2023, Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (consensus) · Gaćina 2023, Acta Clinica Croatica (review) · EU CosIng: TRANEXAMIC ACID
Azelaic acid
A multitasking acid for uneven tone and oily, blemish-prone skin.
- What it is
- A dicarboxylic acid that also occurs naturally in grains.
- What it does
- Evens the look of tone and texture and helps skin look clearer.
- Goes into
- Serums, creams, spot care
- Good to know
- It dissolves poorly in water, so formulas often use a suspension or a derivative. Limits vary by market, we check them for your market.
We can develop or source formulas with azelaic acid. Tell us in your brief.
Sources: Schulte 2015, Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (review) · EU CosIng: AZELAIC ACID
Panthenol provitamin B5
Provitamin B5 for comfort, softness and a stronger-feeling barrier.
- What it is
- Provitamin B5, which the skin converts to pantothenic acid.
- What it does
- Hydrates, softens and helps the skin barrier. It also conditions hair.
- Goes into
- Toners, serums, creams, body lotions, lip care, hair care
- Good to know
- It dissolves in water, so it is easy to add to water-based formulas, from toners to shampoos.
We can develop or source formulas with panthenol. Tell us in your brief.
Sources: Proksch 2017, Journal of Dermatological Treatment (review) · Ebner 2002, American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (review) · EU CosIng: PANTHENOL
Allantoin
A gentle skin-conditioning ingredient that softens and soothes.
- What it is
- A small organic compound, used in cosmetics as a skin-conditioning agent.
- What it does
- Softens and soothes skin, and helps it feel smooth.
- Goes into
- Creams, toners, lip balms, hand creams
- Good to know
- An easy supporting ingredient: it adds comfort next to stronger actives.
Our lab's ready heartleaf concentrate includes allantoin. See ready concentrates
Sources: Becker 2010, International Journal of Toxicology (safety assessment) · EU CosIng: ALLANTOIN
Exfoliating acids AHA, BHA and PHA
Glycolic, salicylic and PHA acids for smoother, clearer-looking skin.
- What it is
- Hydroxy acids that loosen dead surface cells: AHAs such as glycolic acid, the BHA salicylic acid, and PHAs such as gluconolactone.
- What it does
- Smooth rough texture and brighten the look of dull skin. Salicylic acid is oil soluble, and PHAs are larger, gentler molecules.
- Goes into
- Toners, peeling gels, gel cleansers
- Good to know
- US: the FDA recommends a "Sunburn Alert" on cosmetics with AHAs, with sunscreen during use and for a week after. EU: salicylic acid used as an active is limited to 2% in most products and 3% in rinse-off hair products, and not for children under 3 (Annex III entry 98, Regulation (EU) 2019/1966).
Our lab keeps a ready AHA, BHA and PHA concentrate for toners and pad essences. See ready concentrates
Sources: Kornhauser 2010, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology · Tang 2018, Molecules (review) · FDA: Alpha Hydroxy Acids · EU CosIng: SALICYLIC ACID · GLYCOLIC ACID · GLUCONOLACTONE
Cosmetic effects only, never medical claims. Where no limit is given, limits vary by market and we check them for yours. Sources are PubMed-indexed reviews and studies and the EU CosIng database, checked in September 2026.